Coastal Walk

From the bridge at Porthmadog harbour follow the edge of the quay. If you’re lucky you might see an otter teaching her pups to catch crabs – so much easier to train on than fast fish.

This is the start of the Llŷn coastal path but you don’t have to go 84 miles! Behind the yacht club past busy boatyards and thence over a small hill with posh houses and into Borth y Gest.

It’s difficult to imagine this village once teeming with shipwrights and carpenters. When the tide retreats and boats lean onto their sides, oystercatchers come poking their beaks in, foraging for cockles.

Quayside benches, next to the free car park and clean toilets, help to steady binoculars trained on the rich variety of birds that profit from the sands across to Portmeirion.

Continue past the pill box standing sentry over the bay. Currents below race past with a brief respite at turn of tide – savvy locals, in their coxed-four Celtic longboats, time their voyages well as they train for regattas.

At any stage you can turn off the path and drop down to the connected coves and beaches isolated by rocks at high tide. Many locals enjoy moules mariniére from here and swear by the purity of the water. Winkles are said to be good but they look a bit too much like snails.

Across the estuary Harlech Castle provides a model for would-be castle builders. It’s an inspiring place to explore, to play in or catch a sea bass – all that’s best about beaches and coves without the crowds.

A good return trip in less than 3 miles or from the Borth y Gest car park in just a mile – you can go as far or near as you like with a café break overlooking either harbour.